Monday, April 26, 2010

L'Atelier de Joel Robuchon (Tokyo)

The last time we were in Tokyo, the fanciest meal was probably sushi at the Tsujiki Fish Markets and
Gonpachi - with thanks to Carrie, who despite a crazy, fully hectic, work schedule,  took time to take us out to sample some of Roppongi's many restaurants. That was quite a delightful experience. Kill Bill fans will immediately recognise the restaurant.

Fast forward some 3 years since our last trip to Japan... amongst some changes: all the kids in our family got married. In this time, I also took up new hobbies: baking, flying, candle making and did more with my passion for photography. Perhaps the most dramatic change taste wise, is that I've gone from disliking sparking water to actually enjoying it ~ it all strangely came together when we spent 4 weeks in Europe last year where I also discovered confit of duck! ooh lah lah!

OK, so this time in Tokyo, having heard so much about the quality of french cuisine in Japan, we knew we had to sample what was on offer. After Iggy's in Singapore, the natural choice was Joel Robuchon's L'Atelier ~ ranked #20 in the Miele Food Guide. Incidentally, it was Joel Robuchon's restaurant of the same name in Hong Kong that knocked Iggy's off the top spot and took top honours for 2009/2010.

So in the lead up to our trip, I made a lunch reservation via email. The staff at L'Atelier were very professional. You could already feel that the experience was going to be something special!

We decided to head to Roppongi Hills for a wander before our lunch time reservation. I love Roppongi Hills. I don't know why exactly, but I just do! 'Midtown' is a very swish mall. I won't call it a shopping centre, but that just doesn't do it justice. It was super cool 3 years ago.... and it's still cool today!

Ella with some cherry blossoms

 Midtown ~ they have a dude that adjust the frequency of the droplets every morning before opening hours


One of the fancy supermarkets in Midtown: Y$85 to A$1 (today's rates)
Melon: A$82
Cherries: A$176
Mango: A$70

more of Midtown


Where's Wally?

Lunch beckons... 2 stops to Ebisu from Roppongi
After a short scenic walk from Ebisu station towards Yebisu Gardens:
The entrance to Joel Robuchon's castle is not up front. I told Ella she needs to say "open sesame"... that didn't work. In the end, we found the entrance and was greeted by someone from the restaurant in typical japanese politeness and ushered to the foyer of the 'castle'. L'Atelier is located on the 2nd level of the castle and a short flight of stairs later reveals the restaurant. 


As we are seated, I note that everyone is impeccably dressed, as is Ella for the occasion (note, I was in my usual, ie, looking like a bum in Japan). When we made the reservation I did make a purposeful mention that I would be taking photographs of our meals, just so they could put me where the 'light' is. However, once we were seated (Ella's bag got a little velvet chair to 'sit on' and my camera too got a little chair), amongst the grandeur of our surroundings, I quickly summised that the dining patrons wouldn't appreciate the shutter of my camera going off. Bugger, I didn't really want to use the point and shoot.

And here it goes. We order the lunch degustation. There were a couple of options, but we chose the one with the most food (hey, don't judge me...I was a fat kid growing up). Apologies for the photos, as it turns out, my point and shoot was flashing "RECHARGE"....oops...I swear it had full bars when I checked in the morning. Ella reminds me at this time that between waking up and getting to L'Atelier that I did my usual... happy snapping!

 amuse bouche ~ grapefruit, champagne, mint jelly

ENTREE

seiche de printempts confite aux aromates avec une salade de haricots vert aux amandes et "espuma" de poivron rouge ~ baby squid marinated with rosemary (ella)

foie gras de canard en duo de boudin noir avec un fondant de abricot (dexter)

SOUP

 laitue en fin veloute sur un flan trembolant a l'oignon doux ~ cream of lettuce (dexter)
radis noir en bouillon au gingembre, crabe et champignon ~ ginger broth, crab, mushroom, radish (ella)



Funny story: the waiter was trying to explain that for mains we had a choice of fish and meat. After opting for our choice of fish, he went on to explain. For meat: we have "rum" or "beef" - makes sense! For some reason, Ella couldn't make out what the waiter was saying.... I just repeated, "rump, Ella... you know... beef..." OR SO WE THOUGHT! As it turns out, it was lamb, not rump.... Ella and I burst out laughing.... wait till you hear about what went down at Iron Chef Sakai's La Rochelle.

MAINS ~ FISH

daurade servie avec une creme et huile de citronnelle et des poireaux etuves ~ sea bream with lemongrass (ella). Point and Shoot on last legs. I muster the courage to whip out, a proper camera.

"akaisaki" au bambou et avec une puree de pomme de terre citronnee ~ japanese fish


MAINS ~ MEAT

agneau en cannelloni fondant d'aubergine epice ~ lamb wrapped with eggplant

DESSERT

Pre dessert ~ sorbet to cleanse the palatte


fruits exotiques en gelee de citronnelle et vervine avec une creme vanillee et graines de basillic ~ this is really cool! see the ball that Ella has on her spoon? it's a tiny film of jelly with really intense fruit flavours inside

pomme en fine tarte tiede avec un sorbet au gout d'une tatin ~ mine is not so cool....but still really good

selection of cheese ~ this was Ella's pick

Pre tea / coffee dessert ~ pistachio 'something'...very good!
Inside L'Atelier: sugar, the window, the table setting
the dining room
As we rise from our seats to leave the restaurant, we are escorted from the restaurant, directed to the lift (I wanted to take the stairs, but didn't know how to tell the dude). Our friendly waiter/host person rides the lift with us and as the lift door shuts, the maitre'd bows in thanks and appreciation... very nice! Did you know that in Japan, when a plane starts to taxi off from the parking bay, the ground handlers actually stand together, bow and wave 'goodbye' to the departing plane? We could use some of that friendliness around the world! 

Anyway, we find ourselves back in the foyer area. I collect my 'designer' hoodie. Ahem.... and are handed a goodie bag. We are too polite to look inside, but bow and thank our host.
au revoir, merci beaucoup Joel Robuchon...even though you are never in Tokyo...

It was a lovely experience. Ella and I enjoyed every minute of the 3 hour experience. From the castle, to the service, to the interior decor, the choice of bread (sorry, I didn't do it justice), the cheese wagon and of cos, the various courses that we had.

The stand out has to be Ella's soup, my fish and Ella's dessert ~ those were my all time favourites. Everything else was top notch! I felt more relaxed eating at L'Atelier compared to Iggy's even though the decor was way more formal here than in Iggy's. Service was first class and the food, amazing.

3 comments:

Unknown said...

Nicely writen:) I am totaly convinced I need to go there.

Pity you didn't take any pics of how much of a bum you were.

Lorraine @ Not Quite Nigella said...

Oh my! Those photos are gorgeous! I believe his Tokyo restaurant is supposed to be the best out of all of his too so you chose well! :D

hello ditty... said...

i love food art and of course food photography!! loved reading this...... could just about taste the food!